Does my dog have separation anxiety?

A lot of canine behaviour gets tagged with the dreaded separation anxiety label. There are many canine behaviours that we find problematic that occur exclusively in the owner’s absence. If they do not seem to be anxiety-based and are relatively easy to manage and modify, such as chewing or getting into the garbage, we should call them separation-related behaviours. “Anxiety” is the anticipation of unknown or imagined future dangers. With separation anxiety, your dog anticipates bad things happening because you aren’t there. They will exhibit extreme behaviours in terms of vocalization and destruction, especially of confinement structures, self-harm and house soiling by a house-trained dog. Such behaviours require the intervention of a qualified behaviour consultant with training in separation anxiety (CSAT). 

How to prepare your dog for being alone

Some dogs will adjust to the new routine with little issue, especially if they’ve done it before and they are confident and well-adjusted. Others may find the change stressful, especially if they have little experience with being left alone or have had any negative experiences such as being abandoned.  Puppies are at the greatest risk for separation-related behaviours when they are subjected to a sudden transition to a home-alone lifestyle.  It’s important to take the time to prepare your dog or puppy for this change in their schedule to help avoid undue stress. 

Here are some tips to help your dog make the adjustment to being home alone:

• Go gradually – Start off easy with a 5-10 minute absence. Gradually extend your absences as your dog demonstrates that they are able to relax and settle during your absence.
• Use technology to monitor – With today’s easy access to technology, it’s fairly simple to determine whether your dog or puppy gets upset when left alone. Set up a cellphone or laptop computer to record video or, better yet, use an app to link a camera to your phone so you can see what your dog does in your absence. Be sure to come back at the first signs of anxiety (pacing, panting, whining, barking, howling, digging at doors or windows) as you don’t want their stress levels to rise.
• Make sure all their needs are met – Your dog should be fed, watered and physically and mentally well exercised before being left alone. A good walk with lots of opportunities to sniff and explore, or playing a game with rules such as fetch or tug, paired with a training session that reviews some known behaviours are great ways to satisfy your dog’s needs for mental and physical exercise.

Crating

If you plan to crate your dog when they are left home alone, be sure to habituate your dog to the crate well in advance so that they consider this space a safe and comfortable place to rest. As a general Rule of Thumb, a dog should not be enclosed in a crate for more than one hour per their month of age to a maximum of five hours. Personally, I would never routinely leave a dog crated for that long. Remember, a dog is an intelligent, active animal. It’s cruel to leave them unattended with no socialization or mental stimulation for prolonged periods on a regular basis.

How long can a dog be alone?

How long your dog can be left alone is very much dependent on a dog’s age, temperament and energy level. Many dogs will cope with this isolation because they have no choice, but does that mean they should?Most adult dogs should be allowed to relieve themselves about 3-5 times a day. They might be able to hold their bladders for longer, but that isn’t necessarily healthy for them. 

Bodily functions aside, dogs are social animals and need opportunities to interact with people several times each day, and sometimes with other dogs if they enjoy their company. Puppies especially need more social interaction than adult dogs if they are to grow to be behaviourally and mentally sound adults.

Alternatives to leaving your dog home alone

Daycare – If your dog gets along well with most other dogs, attending doggie daycare a couple days per week can help meet their social and physical needs. Make sure, however, that the daycare is clean and managed by well-qualified staff who are experienced in managing safe interactions between the dogs and use positive, fear-free handling methods. It’s also important to ask the daycare about scheduled rest periods for the dogs. Dogs need their naps. Playing all day with their doggie friends will result in overtired dogs who may suffer behaviourally and physically from lack of rest.

Dog walker – Having someone come to take your dog out for a walk part way though the day can help relieve your dog’s boredom, loneliness and inactivity. Be sure to do your research in finding a service that is qualified and reputable. Steer away from those who walk more than 3-4 dogs in one outing. The site rover.com matches families with dogs in need of care services with freelance providers. Users are able to choose care providers according to their location, experience, price and availability.

Home for lunch – if you live close enough to your work place, consider coming home on your lunch break to let the dog out and spend some time together.

Take your dog to work – Since the pandemic, in an effort to retain workers, more companies are allowing employees to bring their pets to the workplace. You won’t know if you don’t ask. If you get a positive answer, be sure to work out logistics of how you can care for your dog at work and what behaviours you need to train to ensure your dog will be a great work buddy.

Day training – If your dog is in need of training, you can hire a qualified dog trainer to come to your house to train your dog while you are at work. This will give your dog needed social interaction as well as mental and physical stimulation to break up the monotony of being home alone. You also get the added benefit of having a professional address some of your dog’s behaviour issues. This is especially beneficial for young dogs and puppies.

Dog sitter – Ask a friend, neighbour or family member if they would be willing to care for your dog while you are away at work. Retirees are often prime candidates for this position. Make sure they have some experience with caring for dogs and/or will follow your instructions and treat your dog with care.

Having a pet requires dedication and taking responsibility for your pet’s health, safety and well-being. They are not machines that we can simply turn on and enjoy when we are home and turn off when we leave. Many dogs manage to adapt to less-than-ideal lifestyles living with humans although this isn’t necessarily good for their mental and physical health. Spending the time, money and effort to ensure your dog is prepared for  being left alone, as well as minimizing their time in isolation, will help give them the quality of life they deserve.

The post Home Alone: Caring for your dog when you’re at work or school. first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post Home Alone: Caring for your dog when you’re at work or school. appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

What it is

Humane dog training methods use positive reinforcement and negative punishment. They are also known as reward-based methods, positive reinforcement, or force free methods. They basically involve giving or withholding rewards contingent on the dog’s behaviour.

Positive reinforcement entails adding something of value immediately after a behaviour so that the behaviour is likely to be repeated. Of course, adding something the animal likes such as a treat, attention or play will increase this likelihood. So when we use the term, positive, it means that something is added. Reinforcement means that the behaviour will repeat. For example, your dog comes to you and you give them a food reward (something is added). This consequence has the effect of increasing the frequency of the behaviour (the behaviour is reinforced).

Negative punishment is removing something immediately after a behaviour so that the behaviour doesn’t repeat. It’s negative because something is being removed such as a toy or attention. It is considered punishment because it causes the behaviour to decrease. For example, your puppy jumps on you so you turn your back and move away. You are removing your attention and access to you (negative) to stop the jumping (punishment).

What it isn’t

Humane dog training doesn’t use force, fear, pain or intimidation to teach behaviour. It is not based on the out-dated, discredited dominance theory; the objective is not to be the alpha and show the animal who’s the boss. No electric collars or fences, choke chains, yelling or hitting is employed. Aversive methods are not necessary.  Indeed, they are even less effective in training behaviour. Positive training is also not permissive. Annoying and destructive behaviour is not tolerated. Dogs are by no means allowed to be a nuisance or put themselves or others at risk. 

How it works

In positive, force-free training, the trainer focuses on reinforcing good behaviours from the dog instead of focusing on correcting undesirable behaviours. It teaches the dog what TO DO instead of what NOT TO DO, which is much more compatible with how animals learn best. The trainer manipulates the environment and handles the dog in such a way as to avoid or prevent bad behaviour. The goal is to set the dog up for success as much as possible so that it can practice good behaviour more than bad.  The dog is reinforced rather than corrected, thus being engaged, motivated to learn, feeling safe, and enjoying the training.

What’s rewarding is in the eye of the beholder

For most training objectives, food is the best reward to use. All dogs like food and it’s the easiest reward to access and deliver quickly. Play, such as a quick game of tug or fetch, is also commonly used as a reward for dogs with a high toy drive. Petting and praise are often used in training, but scientific studies have shown that dogs do not respond to praise unless it has been conditioned to a higher value reward. Most dogs like to be petted, but the several studies found that dogs prefer food over petting as a reward in a training situation. Find out which food and play rewards your dog prefers and use those to motivate your dog in learning.  I’ve had some dog clients actually prefer broccoli over liver treats! The point is that your dog is the one who decides what is reinforcing, not the trainer.

When +R doesn’t work

Maybe you’ve tried reward-based training but didn’t get the results you wanted. Like anything else, you have to use it correctly and there are many tricks of the trade to follow in order to have success. 

• Use the right reward for the job -If I’m practicing known behaviours indoors with few distractions, I can use kibble as a reward with my dog. When I’m working outdoors or in another distracting environment and/or training new or more complex behaviours, I’m going to use a much higher value reward such as cooked meats. 
• Have a plan – When training a behaviour, it’s best to know where you’re going and how to get there. Know the target behaviour and the possible steps to achieve it. Set criteria for each step so you know what you are going to reward.
• Clean up your mechanics – If the way you mark behaviour and deliver rewards is slow or sloppy, it muddies the communication between you and your dog and can also cause your dog to become frustrated and disengaged from learning.
• You are bribing instead of reinforcing – If you are shaking the cookie jar to get your dog in from the yard, you are bribing your dog, not teaching them to come when called. The reward should only appear right after the dog has performed the desired behaviour.  And no, you don’t always have to have treats on you or reward every single good behaviour. There is a technique to learning how to work without visible treats.
• What you’re asking is too difficult – It’s very common for us to progress too quickly when training our dogs. Slower is faster.  Slice behaviours down into baby steps and give the dog lots of practice to build understanding and confidence before trying to have them do the behaviour in different environments and contexts. Build in distractions gradually. They pose a considerable challenge to dogs whose senses are much more acute than ours.

Dog training is a learned skill that takes time and know-how to master. Don’t feel ashamed if you’re struggling. You can seek help from a qualified, positive reinforcement trainer to help you learn the techniques.

Why use positive reinforcement in dog training

Many studies by experts in animal behaviour have shown this type of positive training to be much more effective, safe, more ethical and having no mental, emotional or physical ill effects compared to punishment-based training.

The key to working with any dog is the relationship between the dog and the handler. Positive training builds the dog’s confidence, trust and optimism, and develops connection between dog and handler. These all contribute to a healthy, strong relationship with your dog which, in turn, facilitates good behaviour and obedience from your dog.

It’s so uplifting to see more and more dog owners choosing clickers and treat pouches over corrections and choke chains. And our dogs are much happier and better behaved for it.

The post Positive Dog Training: What is it, and Why and How You Should Use it. first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post Positive Dog Training: What is it, and Why and How You Should Use it. appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The key element lies in the relationship you share with your dog. It determines how safe and happy your dog feels about working and living with you. If your dog doesn’t feel happy and safe with you, there is little chance he will come when called or be very responsive to what you ask from him.

1. TRUST

If you are not trustworthy in your dog’s eyes, they will not feel fully safe when working with you and doing what you ask of them.  As a dog handler, you need to build and safeguard your dog’s trust by ensuring you are never a source of pain or fear, but a source of love, fun, food and safety. Many dog owners erode their dog’s trust unknowingly and with no ill intent. For instance, calling their dog to them then doing something the dog doesn’t like such as clean their ears or put them in their crate, or letting a child climb over them like a jungle gym, or forcing a care procedure on them with no prior training. So, how do you build and nurture a trusting relationship with your dog?

• Be their rock. Be calm around your dog, especially when they are having a hard time or doing a behaviour you don’t want. Blowing up and losing your cool doesn’t inspire them to listen to you better, only to fear and avoid you.  You want your dog to look to you for guidance when they are unsure, afraid or overwhelmed. Teach them what you want them to do instead of what you  don’t want. Dogs are always doing the best they can with the education you’ve given them in the environment they are currently in. Remember that.
• Be consistent. Either allow your dog on the furniture or don’t. There is no sometimes or conditions. If you don’t want your dog to jump on people, don’t allow them to when they are a cute puppy then punish it when they get older and bigger. Don’t have one family member allow the dog to pull them on leash and another disallow any pulling. Dogs don’t understand “special circumstances” or hidden meanings.
• Meet their needs. We can’t expect dogs to behave the way we want or focus on their training if their basic needs haven’t been met. Of course, dogs need sufficient food, water and shelter, but where they sometimes fall short is in their other needs: sufficient exercise, sleep (dogs usually sleep 16 hours a day), human interaction and mental stimulation. It’s worth noting that not all dogs have the same needs. A young Aussie shepherd is going to need more exercise and mental stimulation than a bulldog couch potato. Build your dog’s trust by always making sure you are meeting their needs reliably. They count on you for everything.
• Do no harm. Causing your dog fear or pain in your training or other interactions with them erodes your relationship with your dog and does little to correct unwanted behaviour.
• Never tease. Dogs don’t know how to take a joke. They take you at your word and deed, and if you don’t follow through, or betray their trust, don’t expect them to want to work with you. Treat dogs with respect and kindness and they will amaze you with their performance and loyalty.

2. TIME

If all you can offer a dog is your presence of a few hours between after work and before you go to bed and the weekends, you shouldn’t get a dog. Would you leave a child at home alone all day while you are at work with nothing to do and expect them to do well at school and have good social skills? Of course not. Dogs are sociable, intelligent animals that need daily social, mental and physical stimulation to lead a healthy, happy life -just like people. You got a dog for a companion, so be a companion for your dog. Take your dog with you when you go out and where it’s fair and appropriate for your dog. Go on long, regular daily walks. Hang out together and enjoy each other’s company.

3. TRAINING

By training your dog, you will teach her behaviours adapted to live with humans such as not chewing furniture or barking at the neighbours. And in training your dog, you will learn about your dog’s needs and how she communicates, so both human and canine can live more happily together. The best way to train your dog while building your trusting relationship is by using positive, force-free methods – no fear, pain or intimidation. Continue to train your dog after the basics are conquered. Learn a new dog sport or activity or teach your dog tricks. If we stopped learning after grade school, life would be pretty boring.

4. THE VALUE IS WITH YOU

A dog will always do what he or she deems most reinforcing be it fetching a ball, coming when called or chasing a squirrel. Good trainers create a solid reinforcement history with their dog with them as the source of reinforcement and trumping all other competing reinforcers. I often tell my clients, “Be Disney Land to your dog!”. You want your dog to choose YOU over everything else, and this is achievable with building a solid positive relationship with your dog. Is your dog food-motivated? Good! You hold the keys to the cookie jar. Does your dog love to play? Great! You have a tug toy to play with him when he does a great recall. Does your dog love to sniff? Super! You can let him sniff on a walk when he maintains a loose leash. Your dog is going to access all that he loves through you. You’ll be better than Santa Claus as you are with him all year round, not just on Christmas Eve!

5. PLAY

Dogs are a species that loves to play, be it with their own kind or with other animals, including their humans. Play between dogs and their people helps to strengthen their bond and trust of one another. When a dog sees a handler as a great source of fun and jollies, they will surely be more inclined to work happily with that person and come running when they call their name. 

Some games to play with your dog are:

• tug (always a favourite)
• Fetch with a ball or frisbee
• Hide-and-seek (get super excited when they find you)
• Social play (see video and graphic)

6. COOPERATIVE CARE

Having a dog involves taking care of its physical health including grooming, trimming her nails and cleaning her teeth and ears. You want to teach your dog to accept these care routines and not fear them. Anytime you force your dog to do something, you make the experience unpleasant and frightening and erode the trust you have worked so hard to build between you and your dog. Gently and gradually teach your dog to accept care procedures BEFORE you need to do them. If you wait until your dog has an ear infection before you teach your dog to accept having his ears handled, you and your dog are in for a tough time.

Preferably when your dog is a puppy, get your dog comfortable with:

• being restrained
• Being on an elevated surface such as grooming or examination table
• Having paws handled and touched with a nail grinder or clipper
• Being brushed
• The noise and approach of hair clippers
• Having water sponged or gently poured or hosed on them
• Having their ears handled and gently swabbed
• Having their mouth and lips handled and gums massaged

Always progress very slowly, watching your dog carefully for signs of discomfort or fear. Let your dog set the pace and don’t get too greedy to push to the next step. Give lots of reinforcement along the way to create a positive association with the care procedures, and keep your sessions short. 

7. CLEAR COMMUNICATION

As with all relationships, communication is vital. Good dog trainers understand canine communication in terms of their body language as well as how to communicate to their dog so that their dog can best understand them. Take the time to learn about canine communication and observe your dog closely when interacting with him so you can “listen” to what he’s telling you. With the help of a dog trainer, get your “training chops” in order so that your cues, body movements and other training mechanics are clear, precise and telling your dog the correct message. 

8. TUNE IN TO YOUR DOG

With your knowledge of canine communication in hand, tune in to your dog and assess how he’s feeling at any given moment. Get to know how he holds his ears when he’s curious or worried, how he wags his tail when he’s excited or submissive. Watch everything he does when out on a walk and interpret how he feels about each event such as an approaching cyclist or when someone wants to pet him.

9. EMPATHY

Being careful not to anthropomorphize (applying human traits and feelings to a non-human animal), it’s important to consider your dog’s point of view when exposing him to certain people, places, animals or events.  You may think it would be great for kids to come up to your dog to pet and hug him, but put yourself in your dog’s paws. Would you want complete strangers that have little self-control and under-developed social skills to touch and hold you without your consent? You may think it would great to take your dog to the summer street festival so they are not left home alone, but the crowds of strangers, loud speakers, and hot pavement under your dog’s paws are forms of torture from your dog’s perspective. Your dog trusts and depends on you to keep him safe. It’s your job to be an advocate for your dog and act in his best interest considering he’s a dog, not a person.

10. KNOW YOUR DOG

All of the above points translate to knowing your dog really well. You get to know your dog by spending time with your dog and tuning into what she’s telling you with her eyes, ears, and position of her tail. You get to know what motivates her and makes her happy to help her learn the behaviours you want and need from her. You will know what her play style and preferences are and when she needs a break from the excitement. You will know what parts of her body are more sensitive than others and where she loves to be scratched. And when you use that knowledge to guide your decisions in regards to where you take her, who or what she interacts with, what behaviours you ask of her and how you interact with her, with her happiness and well-being at heart, you will gain her trust and you will have a dog who is happy to do whatever work you ask of them.

The post 10 Things That Make for a Better Relationship With Your Dog first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post 10 Things That Make for a Better Relationship With Your Dog appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

I’ll always ask them when they walk their dog.

“Oh, I walk her at least twice a day, sometimes an extra walk during my lunch break.”

“Perfect,” I tell them. “You have lots of time to train your dog.”

By making a few tweaks to your daily walking routine, you would be amazed at how much training and enrichment you can pack into a dog walk and it does not take any extra time. And the benefits are many. When you weave in some nose work, a bit of training and even some obstacles into your walk, having exercised his mind as well as his body, your dog will return to the house twice as tired and satisfied than from a walk just for exercise and eliminating. AND you should reap the joys and benefits of a better-behaved dog from the added training practice.

Here are some ways to get the most out of your dog walks for a happier, calmer, and better-behaved dog.

Tune in to your dog

First, you must be PRESENT and TUNED IN to your dog during your walks. It is not the right time to be planning what to make for dinner, how to revise a presentation at work or check your text messages on your phone. If possible, leave your phone at home so you are not distracted or interrupted. It can be a lovely break from the demands of others. Notice how he is feeling, including his emotional as well as physical state. Is he super excited from the new snow, worried about the construction noise across the street, do you notice any stiffness or limping in his gate? These observations can give you important information about how you should proceed with the walk in terms of what skills you might focus on or what physical challenges you might present to your dog.

Let them be nosy

Unlike humans who use their eyes, dogs take in the world primarily though their sense of smell. Scientists guess the dog’s sense of smell is somewhere between 10,000 to 100,000 times more acute than ours. One of the reasons a dog has such better smelling ability than us is the number of scent receptors. For every scent receptor a human has, a dog has about 50.  That is amazing! 

Imagine if someone took you for a nice walk through the woods or a garden on a beautiful day and did not allow you to look at the scenery. It would not be that great of an outing for you. If you do not allow your dog to sniff on a walk, it is a similar experience for him. 

Although you may feel that your dog’s sniffing every bush, tree and lamppost may be unnecessarily impeding your progress towards getting from Point A to Point B, it is serving a very important purpose. Sniffing is a calming and soothing behaviour for dogs and helps them to relax. It also fulfills a basic need for your dog to explore his world and gain information about who and what is or has been in the vicinity. From smelling another animals’ urine or faeces, your dog will discover the animal’s:

• Species
• The state of health
• The gender and sexual status
• Recent diet
• How long ago the animal left its scent

With all this information coming in through a dog’s nose, it’s not surprising that scent work is very mentally stimulating. Their brains are working hard to process all this information. 

I tell my clients, “Let your dog sniff his brains out on walks. He’ll come back twice as tired and satisfied.” Forget about making a certain distance or destination your goal in your dog walks. If you let your dog sniff all he wants, the length of the walk won’t matter.

“Sniffaris” or Decompression Walks

Decompression walks are great therapy for both the dog and the owner. The dog’s nose and inclinations (within reason) determine the path of the walk while the handler follows behind with a loose leash and an open mind. Follow these tips for a successful decompression walk for both ends of the leash.

• They are best done in a quieter, “off the beaten path” environment such as a wooded trail or park during off-peak hours.
• Have your dog on a harness with the leash attached at the back ring instead of the front ring (if your dog does not pull you all over)
• Use a longer leash (if your municipality allows) to give your dog more freedom to follow his nose. I like a 10 or 15-foot leash for Sniffaries.
• Keep a loose leash- it helps the dog relax and concentrate on the smells
• Do not be in a hurry, just be in the moment with your dog and enjoy the lack of agenda for a while.

Mind your Leash Manners

Your daily walks are, of course, the perfect time to work on your dog’s leash manners. Choose the environment according to your dog’s current ability and arousal thresholds. If you know your dog is going to be overly reactive or stressed by the sight of car traffic, other people, dogs or squirrels, choose an area that has fewer of these triggers around so that your dog can be a bit challenged, but still successful.

The top two things to do to get better leash manners are to:

1. Put on the breaks when your dog pulls. If you keep going in the direction he is pulling, you are reinforcing the pulling because it is working for him.
2. Teach your dog to yield to leash pressure (while teaching yourself to become sensitive to leash tension). 

The leash should be used more as a communication tool than as a tool to control your dog. You want leash tension to mean to your dog, “Come back towards me”. Because of the opposition reflex (the reflex to pull against tension), a dog (and people too) will pull back when being pulled. To teach a dog to move in the direction of the tension, we simply must reinforce it. 

• With your dog on leash, gently but firmly pull on the leash towards you.
• The instant your dog turns towards you and/or takes a step in the direction of the tension, click (or say YES!), instantly release the tension and give your dog a treat.
• Repeat from different directions (front, side and behind)

Remember and use these two strategies EVERY TIME your dog is on leash.

There are many more techniques and pointers for better leash walks. I teach these in my classes and offer a loose leash walking workshop. 

Sniffaris and Leash Manners in the Real World

Going after a scent does not give the dog license to pull you all over the place, into thorny bushes and streams. Do not allow your dog to pull you to a scent, but instead allow access to the scent as reinforcement for maintaining a loose leash. For example, dog begins to pull on leash towards a fire hydrant. Handler immediately puts on the breaks and asks for the dog’s attention and to come back towards the handler, making slack in the leash. The handler then praises the dog and releases them to go sniff.

May I have your attention please?

If you have had success with cueing your dog for her attention at home, practicing and applying this skill on her walks will help her consolidate this skill in different, more distracting environments – which is where you really need it. Randomly, but when you are confident your dog will be able to succeed, cue your dog for her attention when on a walk. When she turns to look at you, praise her and give her a quick treat and continue on your route or occasionally change direction. This is good practice for when you need her attention to move away from a distraction such as a passing cyclist or another dog. Regularly practicing and reinforcing your dog for giving you her attention is essential if you want your dog listening and following your directions.

Defeating Distractions

Practicing your protocols when faced with a distraction on walks can make the difference between a frenzied walk and a fabulous one. As with getting your dog to give you his attention, this skill needs to be initiated at home before taking it to the Real World. Treat distractions that you encounter on your daily walks as teachable moments and opportunities to rehearse what to do when a distraction presents itself. With the right training and practice, you can have your dog convinced that YOU are better than any passing dog, “fragrant” garbage bin or even a scampering squirrel. I offer a complete course dedicated to helping dogs overcome distractions.

Rock that Recall

If you are fortunate enough to have a place where you can walk your dog off leash, you have a great opportunity to work on your dog’s recall. When doing off-leash training, it’s a good idea to take higher value treats with you as the stakes are higher and the work is more difficult for your dog. Reward your dog for unsolicited, random check-ins with you to let them know you like it when they come to you. Ask for frequent recalls when you feel confident that your dog will come back to you (he isn’t too far away, and he isn’t in hot pursuit of a deer or squirrel) to practice successful recalls. Once he comes to you, celebrate his wonderful accomplishment with cheers and marvellous treats then send him off to explore again. It is important that he learns that coming to you doesn’t mean the end to his fun.

Beefing Up the Basics

So, you’ve got Rover to sit for his meals, stay when a door opens, and lie down in the living room, but that doesn’t mean he knows how to do those behaviours in other environments and contexts. Dogs do not generalize their learning very well. That is why once your dog has learned a behaviour at home, you need to take it on the road to different places and situations. If your dog knows how to do a structured heel, try slowing and speeding up your pace, challenging him to keep pace with you. You could also teach him to back up. Have your dog perform sit-stays and down-stays at random times and places during your walks. Vary and adjust the distance, duration, and distraction levels of these behaviours according to your dog’s ability. If you are on an off-leash walk, you can try having your dog stay while you go out of sight. To proof his down-stays, see if you can run away from your dog or run all the way around him in a circle. Make up your own challenges while always setting your dog up for success by not asking for anything that he might not be capable of with his current level of training or the distractions in the environment. Keep it fun and reward your dog with treats often.

Enrich the body and mind- bring out his inner Ninja

Look for opportunities to develop your dog’s balance, strength, and fitness on your walks. Hopping on and off of benches, stools, logs, boulders, picnic tables, anything that you come across that would be safe and offer a little challenge. Doing little spins and sitting on their haunches on level tree stumps or other small platforms works their flexibility and balance. Walking along narrow structures such as planks, fallen logs, or little foot bridges helps build their balance and confidence. I find obstacle work especially beneficial for older dogs to keep their minds and bodies active and sharp. I show how to enhance your dog walks in this video.

By taking advantage of the many nosework opportunities, teachable moments, and obstacles along your daily walks, you can pack in a lot of valuable training in a time that you are already dedicating to your dog. You will improve your training skills and strengthen your bond with your dog, and your dog will benefit greatly from the added mental stimulation and physical challenges. It’s a win-win for everyone.

The post Getting the Most from your Dog Walks first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post Getting the Most from your Dog Walks appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.