How Dogs Keep Their Cool

Dogs have a fairly limited body cooling system. Dogs sweat very minimally and only through their footpads, so this is not a significant means of cooling. A dog’s main cooling strategy is panting. When a dog pants, air flows over the tongue and throat area and helps cool the blood sent to the tongue by the heart. That cooler blood then circulates through the rest of the body back to the heart, to start the process over. Dogs can also lie on a cool surface, if available, and their heat is transferred. You may often see dogs dig an indentation in the dirt so that they can lie on the slightly cooler, freshly dug earth.

There are physical factors that affect the ability of a dog to be able to cool their body. Brachycephalic breeds like Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, and Boxers are notorious for overheating. Due to breed-related airway abnormalities such as small nostrils, long floppy palates and tonsils, and narrow, weak windpipes, brachycephalic dogs can overheat very quickly.  Another consideration is whether a dog is conditioned to living in a hot climate. Just like people, it can take dogs some time before they acclimate to the warmer temperatures if they are used to living in a cooler region. A dog’s health, age and physical fitness also play an important role. Dogs who are not accustomed to exercise and exert themselves in hot weather can suffer heat stroke very rapidly. This is especially true if they are overweight or elderly.

When They Can’t Take the Heat

Heat stroke progresses through three stages. It begins with heat stress where a dog is needing to work hard at keeping their body cool. Initially, a dog will pant heavily, their tongue red, enlarged and extended in an effort to maximize that air circulation. You may notice increased salivation, an anxious expression, staring without seeing, failing to respond to commands, skin that is warm and dry, fever, rapid pulse, fatigue or exhaustion, muscular weakness, and physical collapse. They will  seek a cool surface, and drink water to bring their body temperature down.

If a dog cannot do these things or cannot do them effectively (such as when trapped in a hot car), heat stress develops into heat exhaustion and heat injuries can start to set in. The panting becomes much faster, heart rate elevates, the gums become red and tacky, and body temperature is likely greater than 40 degrees Celsius.

If this goes unaddressed, heat stroke develops. Symptoms can include a warm nose and foot pads, glazed eyes, heavy panting, rapid pulse, a dark red tongue, fever, dizziness, vomiting or diarrhea, immobility, and unconsciousness. Brain damage occurs when the body’s temperature reaches 41° to 42°C. A dog’s normal temperature is 38° to 38.5°C.

First Aid

If your dog experiences any of the above symptoms, provide immediate first aid. Your rapid response may save your dog’s life. Reduce your dog’s temperature by moving them into shade and immersing her into cool water beginning with the head and extremities. If possible, apply ice packs to their head and neck. Apply wet towels to the abdomen, groin, legs, head, and neck.

After cooling, take your dog to the veterinarian. Do not wait to see if they improve, as heat stroke can be deadly in a matter of hours.

Even if they seem to have recovered, their body temperature could increase again; heat stress always carries a risk of brain damage; and depending on the dog’s age, physical condition, and the amount of time spent with an elevated temperature, complications can occur.

How to Keep Cool When the Heat is On

Your dog’s coat is designed to protect him from weather extremes. Regular grooming is a necessity, especially for dogs with a thick undercoat, 

Dogs who appear to have thick tufts of uneven hair throughout their coat definitely need the old undercoat brushed out. Single-coated dogs can actually be at a disadvantage. They may need more protection against sunburn and heat because they lack that protective undercoat. Whatever you do, avoid the myth about shaving your dog’s coat to make him cooler.

Many dogs enjoy playing or lying down in a hard plastic kiddie pool containing a few inches of fresh, cool water. This is a much easier way to wet down your dog to cool him off than using a hose. Wet the belly, groin area and the under the armpits of the front legs. You should not wet their backs because it can actually make them hotter by trapping the heat closer to the skin.

Make sure when your dog is outside that he has shade and plentiful fresh water. Keeping it cold and fresh may encourage your dog to drink more. Replenish frequently and add ice cubes. If you plan to visit a dog park, choose one that has water nearby for swimming and playing.

If you’re going for a walk or hike in hot weather, always carry along water and a bowl for your dog. Dogs pant to release heat. So if your dog pants more heavily than usual, slow down, stop, find shade, offer water, and rest for a while. When in an urban area, first test the temperature of the pavement before having your pooch walk on it. Place your bare hand on the pavement or sidewalk for 10 full seconds. If the temperature feels comfortable to your hand, then it should be safe for your dog. If not, forgo the walk until surfaces have cooled down.

Hot Cars Kill

Many owners prefer to take their dogs with them as they run errands around town. This could be a deadly practice, especially in the summer months. Many people believe if they park in the shade and crack open the windows, all will be well as they make a quick pit stop, but they couldn’t be more wrong. When the outside temperature is just 26°C, your car can reach a deadly 46° in less than 30 minutes.  Either leave your dog safely at home, or take them in the store with you. Canadian stores that allow dogs include:

• Home Depot
• Bed, Bath & Beyond
• Most pet stores
• Winners
• Homesense
• Marshalls
• Canadian Tire

The stores listed here may be location dependent. Call ahead to be sure if they are pet-friendly.

Your dog depends on you for everything they love and need. It’s your job to keep them happy, healthy and safe. Knowing how to recognize, treat, and prevent heat injury will help your dog enjoy the summer happily and safely along with you.

The post When the Heat is On: How to Protect Your Dog from Heat Injury first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post When the Heat is On: How to Protect Your Dog from Heat Injury appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

What it is

Humane dog training methods use positive reinforcement and negative punishment. They are also known as reward-based methods, positive reinforcement, or force free methods. They basically involve giving or withholding rewards contingent on the dog’s behaviour.

Positive reinforcement entails adding something of value immediately after a behaviour so that the behaviour is likely to be repeated. Of course, adding something the animal likes such as a treat, attention or play will increase this likelihood. So when we use the term, positive, it means that something is added. Reinforcement means that the behaviour will repeat. For example, your dog comes to you and you give them a food reward (something is added). This consequence has the effect of increasing the frequency of the behaviour (the behaviour is reinforced).

Negative punishment is removing something immediately after a behaviour so that the behaviour doesn’t repeat. It’s negative because something is being removed such as a toy or attention. It is considered punishment because it causes the behaviour to decrease. For example, your puppy jumps on you so you turn your back and move away. You are removing your attention and access to you (negative) to stop the jumping (punishment).

What it isn’t

Humane dog training doesn’t use force, fear, pain or intimidation to teach behaviour. It is not based on the out-dated, discredited dominance theory; the objective is not to be the alpha and show the animal who’s the boss. No electric collars or fences, choke chains, yelling or hitt

ing is employed. Aversive methods are not necessary.  Indeed, they are even less effective in training behaviour. Positive training is also not permissive. Annoying and destructive behaviour is not tolerated. Dogs are by no means allowed to be a nuisance or put themselves or others at risk. 

How it works

In positive, force-free training, the trainer focuses on reinforcing good behaviours from the dog instead of focusing on correcting undesirable behaviours. It teaches the dog what TO DO instead of what NOT TO DO, which is much more compatible with how animals learn best. The trainer manipulates the environment and handles the dog in such a way as to avoid or prevent bad behaviour. The goal is to set the dog up for success as much as possible so that it can practice good behaviour more than bad.  The dog is reinforced rather than corrected, thus being engaged, motivated to learn, feeling safe, and enjoying the training.

What’s rewarding is in the eye of the beholder

For most training objectives, food is the best reward to use. All dogs like food and it’s the easiest reward to access and deliver quickly. Play, such as a quick game of tug or fetch, is also commonly used as a reward for dogs with a high toy drive. Petting and praise are often used in training, but scientific studies have shown that dogs do not respond to praise unless it has been conditioned to a higher value reward. Most dogs like to be petted, but the several studies found that dogs prefer food over petting as a reward in a training situation. Find out which food and play rewards your dog prefers and use those to motivate your dog in learning.  I’ve had some dog clients actually prefer broccoli over liver treats! The point is that your dog is the one who decides what is reinforcing, not the trainer.

When +R doesn’t work

Maybe you’ve tried reward-based training but didn’t get the results you wanted. Like anything else, you have to use it correctly and there are many tricks of the trade to follow in order to have success. 

• Use the right reward for the job -If I’m practicing known behaviours indoors with few distractions, I can use kibble as a reward with my dog. When I’m working outdoors or in another distracting environment and/or training new or more complex behaviours, I’m going to use a much higher value reward such as cooked meats. 
• Have a plan – When training a behaviour, it’s best to know where you’re going and how to get there. Know the target behaviour and the possible steps to achieve it. Set criteria for each step so you know what you are going to reward.
• Clean up your mechanics – If the way you mark behaviour and deliver rewards is slow or sloppy, it muddies the communication between you and your dog and can also cause your dog to become frustrated and disengaged from learning.
• You are bribing instead of reinforcing – If you are shaking the cookie jar to get your dog in from the yard, you are bribing your dog, not teaching them to come when called. The reward should only appear right after the dog has performed the desired behaviour.  And no, you don’t always have to have treats on you or reward every single good behaviour. There is a technique to learning how to work without visible treats.
• What you’re asking is too difficult – It’s very common for us to progress too quickly when training our dogs. Slower is faster.  Slice behaviours down into baby steps and give the dog lots of practice to build understanding and confidence before trying to have them do the behaviour in different environments and contexts. Build in distractions gradually. They pose a considerable challenge to dogs whose senses are much more acute than ours.

Dog training is a learned skill that takes time and know-how to master. Don’t feel ashamed if you’re struggling. You can seek help from a qualified, positive reinforcement trainer to help you learn the techniques.

Why use positive reinforcement in dog training

Many studies by experts in animal behaviour have shown this type of positive training to be much more effective, safe, more ethical and having no mental, emotional or physical ill effects compared to punishment-based training.

The key to working with any dog is the relationship between the dog and the handler. Positive training builds the dog’s confidence, trust and optimism, and develops connection between dog and handler. These all contribute to a healthy, strong relationship with your dog which, in turn, facilitates good behaviour and obedience from your dog.

It’s so uplifting to see more and more dog owners choosing clickers and treat pouches over corrections and choke chains. And our dogs are much happier and better behaved for it.

The post Positive Dog Training: What is it, and Why and How You Should Use it. first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post Positive Dog Training: What is it, and Why and How You Should Use it. appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The key element lies in the relationship you share with your dog. It determines how safe and happy your dog feels about working and living with you. If your dog doesn’t feel happy and safe with you, there is little chance he will come when called or be very responsive to what you ask from him.

1. TRUST

If you are not trustworthy in your dog’s eyes, they will not feel fully safe when working with you and doing what you ask of them.  As a dog handler, you need to build and safeguard your dog’s trust by ensuring you are never a source of pain or fear, but a source of love, fun, food and safety. Many dog owners erode their dog’s trust unknowingly and with no ill intent. For instance, calling their dog to them then doing something the dog doesn’t like such as clean their ears or put them in their crate, or letting a child climb over them like a jungle gym, or forcing a care procedure on them with no prior training. So, how do you build and nurture a trusting relationship with your dog?

• Be their rock. Be calm around your dog, especially when they are having a hard time or doing a behaviour you don’t want. Blowing up and losing your cool doesn’t inspire them to listen to you better, only to fear and avoid you.  You want your dog to look to you for guidance when they are unsure, afraid or overwhelmed. Teach them what you want them to do instead of what you  don’t want. Dogs are always doing the best they can with the education you’ve given them in the environment they are currently in. Remember that.
• Be consistent. Either allow your dog on the furniture or don’t. There is no sometimes or conditions. If you don’t want your dog to jump on people, don’t allow them to when they are a cute puppy then punish it when they get older and bigger. Don’t have one family member allow the dog to pull them on leash and another disallow any pulling. Dogs don’t understand “special circumstances” or hidden meanings.
• Meet their needs. We can’t expect dogs to behave the way we want or focus on their training if their basic needs haven’t been met. Of course, dogs need sufficient food, water and shelter, but where they sometimes fall short is in their other needs: sufficient exercise, sleep (dogs usually sleep 16 hours a day), human interaction and mental stimulation. It’s worth noting that not all dogs have the same needs. A young Aussie shepherd is going to need more exercise and mental stimulation than a bulldog couch potato. Build your dog’s trust by always making sure you are meeting their needs reliably. They count on you for everything.
• Do no harm. Causing your dog fear or pain in your training or other interactions with them erodes your relationship with your dog and does little to correct unwanted behaviour.
• Never tease. Dogs don’t know how to take a joke. They take you at your word and deed, and if you don’t follow through, or betray their trust, don’t expect them to want to work with you. Treat dogs with respect and kindness and they will amaze you with their performance and loyalty.

2. TIME

If all you can offer a dog is your presence of a few hours between after work and before you go to bed and the weekends, you shouldn’t get a dog. Would you leave a child at home alone all day while you are at work with nothing to do and expect them to do well at school and have good social skills? Of course not. Dogs are sociable, intelligent animals that need daily social, mental and physical stimulation to lead a healthy, happy life -just like people. You got a dog for a companion, so be a companion for your dog. Take your dog with you when you go out and where it’s fair and appropriate for your dog. Go on long, regular daily walks. Hang out together and enjoy each other’s company.

3. TRAINING

By training your dog, you will teach her behaviours adapted to live with humans such as not chewing furniture or barking at the neighbours. And in training your dog, you will learn about your dog’s needs and how she communicates, so both human and canine can live more happily together. The best way to train your dog while building your trusting relationship is by using positive, force-free methods – no fear, pain or intimidation. Continue to train your dog after the basics are conquered. Learn a new dog sport or activity or teach your dog tricks. If we stopped learning after grade school, life would be pretty boring.

4. THE VALUE IS WITH YOU

A dog will always do what he or she deems most reinforcing be it fetching a ball, coming when called or chasing a squirrel. Good trainers create a solid reinforcement history with their dog with them as the source of reinforcement and trumping all other competing reinforcers. I often tell my clients, “Be Disney Land to your dog!”. You want your dog to choose YOU over everything else, and this is achievable with building a solid positive relationship with your dog. Is your dog food-motivated? Good! You hold the keys to the cookie jar. Does your dog love to play? Great! You have a tug toy to play with him when he does a great recall. Does your dog love to sniff? Super! You can let him sniff on a walk when he maintains a loose leash. Your dog is going to access all that he loves through you. You’ll be better than Santa Claus as you are with him all year round, not just on Christmas Eve!

5. PLAY

Dogs are a species that loves to play, be it with their own kind or with other animals, including their humans. Play between dogs and their people helps to strengthen their bond and trust of one another. When a dog sees a handler as a great source of fun and jollies, they will surely be more inclined to work happily with that person and come running when they call their name. 

Some games to play with your dog are:

• tug (always a favourite)
• Fetch with a ball or frisbee
• Hide-and-seek (get super excited when they find you)
• Social play (see video and graphic)

6. COOPERATIVE CARE

Having a dog involves taking care of its physical health including grooming, trimming her nails and cleaning her teeth and ears. You want to teach your dog to accept these care routines and not fear them. Anytime you force your dog to do something, you make the experience unpleasant and frightening and erode the trust you have worked so hard to build between you and your dog. Gently and gradually teach your dog to accept care procedures BEFORE you need to do them. If you wait until your dog has an ear infection before you teach your dog to accept having his ears handled, you and your dog are in for a tough time.

Preferably when your dog is a puppy, get your dog comfortable with:

• being restrained
• Being on an elevated surface such as grooming or examination table
• Having paws handled and touched with a nail grinder or clipper
• Being brushed
• The noise and approach of hair clippers
• Having water sponged or gently poured or hosed on them
• Having their ears handled and gently swabbed
• Having their mouth and lips handled and gums massaged

Always progress very slowly, watching your dog carefully for signs of discomfort or fear. Let your dog set the pace and don’t get too greedy to push to the next step. Give lots of reinforcement along the way to create a positive association with the care procedures, and keep your sessions short. 

7. CLEAR COMMUNICATION

As with all relationships, communication is vital. Good dog trainers understand canine communication in terms of their body language as well as how to communicate to their dog so that their dog can best understand them. Take the time to learn about canine communication and observe your dog closely when interacting with him so you can “listen” to what he’s telling you. With the help of a dog trainer, get your “training chops” in order so that your cues, body movements and other training mechanics are clear, precise and telling your dog the correct message. 

8. TUNE IN TO YOUR DOG

With your knowledge of canine communication in hand, tune in to your dog and assess how he’s feeling at any given moment. Get to know how he holds his ears when he’s curious or worried, how he wags his tail when he’s excited or submissive. Watch everything he does when out on a walk and interpret how he feels about each event such as an approaching cyclist or when someone wants to pet him.

9. EMPATHY

Being careful not to anthropomorphize (applying human traits and feelings to a non-human animal), it’s important to consider your dog’s point of view when exposing him to certain people, places, animals or events.  You may think it would be great for kids to come up to your dog to pet and hug him, but put yourself in your dog’s paws. Would you want complete strangers that have little self-control and under-developed social skills to touch and hold you without your consent? You may think it would great to take your dog to the summer street festival so they are not left home alone, but the crowds of strangers, loud speakers, and hot pavement under your dog’s paws are forms of torture from your dog’s perspective. Your dog trusts and depends on you to keep him safe. It’s your job to be an advocate for your dog and act in his best interest considering he’s a dog, not a person.

10. KNOW YOUR DOG

All of the above points translate to knowing your dog really well. You get to know your dog by spending time with your dog and tuning into what she’s telling you with her eyes, ears, and position of her tail. You get to know what motivates her and makes her happy to help her learn the behaviours you want and need from her. You will know what her play style and preferences are and when she needs a break from the excitement. You will know what parts of her body are more sensitive than others and where she loves to be scratched. And when you use that knowledge to guide your decisions in regards to where you take her, who or what she interacts with, what behaviours you ask of her and how you interact with her, with her happiness and well-being at heart, you will gain her trust and you will have a dog who is happy to do whatever work you ask of them.

The post 10 Things That Make for a Better Relationship With Your Dog first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post 10 Things That Make for a Better Relationship With Your Dog appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

I’ll always ask them when they walk their dog.

“Oh, I walk her at least twice a day, sometimes an extra walk during my lunch break.”

“Perfect,” I tell them. “You have lots of time to train your dog.”

By making a few tweaks to your daily walking routine, you would be amazed at how much training and enrichment you can pack into a dog walk and it does not take any extra time. And the benefits are many. When you weave in some nose work, a bit of training and even some obstacles into your walk, having exercised his mind as well as his body, your dog will return to the house twice as tired and satisfied than from a walk just for exercise and eliminating. AND you should reap the joys and benefits of a better-behaved dog from the added training practice.

Here are some ways to get the most out of your dog walks for a happier, calmer, and better-behaved dog.

Tune in to your dog

First, you must be PRESENT and TUNED IN to your dog during your walks. It is not the right time to be planning what to make for dinner, how to revise a presentation at work or check your text messages on your phone. If possible, leave your phone at home so you are not distracted or interrupted. It can be a lovely break from the demands of others. Notice how he is feeling, including his emotional as well as physical state. Is he super excited from the new snow, worried about the construction noise across the street, do you notice any stiffness or limping in his gate? These observations can give you important information about how you should proceed with the walk in terms of what skills you might focus on or what physical challenges you might present to your dog.

Let them be nosy

Unlike humans who use their eyes, dogs take in the world primarily though their sense of smell. Scientists guess the dog’s sense of smell is somewhere between 10,000 to 100,000 times more acute than ours. One of the reasons a dog has such better smelling ability than us is the number of scent receptors. For every scent receptor a human has, a dog has about 50.  That is amazing! 

Imagine if someone took you for a nice walk through the woods or a garden on a beautiful day and did not allow you to look at the scenery. It would not be that great of an outing for you. If you do not allow your dog to sniff on a walk, it is a similar experience for him. 

Although you may feel that your dog’s sniffing every bush, tree and lamppost may be unnecessarily impeding your progress towards getting from Point A to Point B, it is serving a very important purpose. Sniffing is a calming and soothing behaviour for dogs and helps them to relax. It also fulfills a basic need for your dog to explore his world and gain information about who and what is or has been in the vicinity. From smelling another animals’ urine or faeces, your dog will discover the animal’s:

• Species
• The state of health
• The gender and sexual status
• Recent diet
• How long ago the animal left its scent

With all this information coming in through a dog’s nose, it’s not surprising that scent work is very mentally stimulating. Their brains are working hard to process all this information. 

I tell my clients, “Let your dog sniff his brains out on walks. He’ll come back twice as tired and satisfied.” Forget about making a certain distance or destination your goal in your dog walks. If you let your dog sniff all he wants, the length of the walk won’t matter.

“Sniffaris” or Decompression Walks

Decompression walks are great therapy for both the dog and the owner. The dog’s nose and inclinations (within reason) determine the path of the walk while the handler follows behind with a loose leash and an open mind. Follow these tips for a successful decompression walk for both ends of the leash.

• They are best done in a quieter, “off the beaten path” environment such as a wooded trail or park during off-peak hours.
• Have your dog on a harness with the leash attached at the back ring instead of the front ring (if your dog does not pull you all over)
• Use a longer leash (if your municipality allows) to give your dog more freedom to follow his nose. I like a 10 or 15-foot leash for Sniffaries.
• Keep a loose leash- it helps the dog relax and concentrate on the smells
• Do not be in a hurry, just be in the moment with your dog and enjoy the lack of agenda for a while.

Mind your Leash Manners

Your daily walks are, of course, the perfect time to work on your dog’s leash manners. Choose the environment according to your dog’s current ability and arousal thresholds. If you know your dog is going to be overly reactive or stressed by the sight of car traffic, other people, dogs or squirrels, choose an area that has fewer of these triggers around so that your dog can be a bit challenged, but still successful.

The top two things to do to get better leash manners are to:

1. Put on the breaks when your dog pulls. If you keep going in the direction he is pulling, you are reinforcing the pulling because it is working for him.
2. Teach your dog to yield to leash pressure (while teaching yourself to become sensitive to leash tension). 

The leash should be used more as a communication tool than as a tool to control your dog. You want leash tension to mean to your dog, “Come back towards me”. Because of the opposition reflex (the reflex to pull against tension), a dog (and people too) will pull back when being pulled. To teach a dog to move in the direction of the tension, we simply must reinforce it. 

• With your dog on leash, gently but firmly pull on the leash towards you.
• The instant your dog turns towards you and/or takes a step in the direction of the tension, click (or say YES!), instantly release the tension and give your dog a treat.
• Repeat from different directions (front, side and behind)

Remember and use these two strategies EVERY TIME your dog is on leash.

There are many more techniques and pointers for better leash walks. I teach these in my classes and offer a loose leash walking workshop. 

Sniffaris and Leash Manners in the Real World

Going after a scent does not give the dog license to pull you all over the place, into thorny bushes and streams. Do not allow your dog to pull you to a scent, but instead allow access to the scent as reinforcement for maintaining a loose leash. For example, dog begins to pull on leash towards a fire hydrant. Handler immediately puts on the breaks and asks for the dog’s attention and to come back towards the handler, making slack in the leash. The handler then praises the dog and releases them to go sniff.

May I have your attention please?

If you have had success with cueing your dog for her attention at home, practicing and applying this skill on her walks will help her consolidate this skill in different, more distracting environments – which is where you really need it. Randomly, but when you are confident your dog will be able to succeed, cue your dog for her attention when on a walk. When she turns to look at you, praise her and give her a quick treat and continue on your route or occasionally change direction. This is good practice for when you need her attention to move away from a distraction such as a passing cyclist or another dog. Regularly practicing and reinforcing your dog for giving you her attention is essential if you want your dog listening and following your directions.

Defeating Distractions

Practicing your protocols when faced with a distraction on walks can make the difference between a frenzied walk and a fabulous one. As with getting your dog to give you his attention, this skill needs to be initiated at home before taking it to the Real World. Treat distractions that you encounter on your daily walks as teachable moments and opportunities to rehearse what to do when a distraction presents itself. With the right training and practice, you can have your dog convinced that YOU are better than any passing dog, “fragrant” garbage bin or even a scampering squirrel. I offer a complete course dedicated to helping dogs overcome distractions.

Rock that Recall

If you are fortunate enough to have a place where you can walk your dog off leash, you have a great opportunity to work on your dog’s recall. When doing off-leash training, it’s a good idea to take higher value treats with you as the stakes are higher and the work is more difficult for your dog. Reward your dog for unsolicited, random check-ins with you to let them know you like it when they come to you. Ask for frequent recalls when you feel confident that your dog will come back to you (he isn’t too far away, and he isn’t in hot pursuit of a deer or squirrel) to practice successful recalls. Once he comes to you, celebrate his wonderful accomplishment with cheers and marvellous treats then send him off to explore again. It is important that he learns that coming to you doesn’t mean the end to his fun.

Beefing Up the Basics

So, you’ve got Rover to sit for his meals, stay when a door opens, and lie down in the living room, but that doesn’t mean he knows how to do those behaviours in other environments and contexts. Dogs do not generalize their learning very well. That is why once your dog has learned a behaviour at home, you need to take it on the road to different places and situations. If your dog knows how to do a structured heel, try slowing and speeding up your pace, challenging him to keep pace with you. You could also teach him to back up. Have your dog perform sit-stays and down-stays at random times and places during your walks. Vary and adjust the distance, duration, and distraction levels of these behaviours according to your dog’s ability. If you are on an off-leash walk, you can try having your dog stay while you go out of sight. To proof his down-stays, see if you can run away from your dog or run all the way around him in a circle. Make up your own challenges while always setting your dog up for success by not asking for anything that he might not be capable of with his current level of training or the distractions in the environment. Keep it fun and reward your dog with treats often.

Enrich the body and mind- bring out his inner Ninja

Look for opportunities to develop your dog’s balance, strength, and fitness on your walks. Hopping on and off of benches, stools, logs, boulders, picnic tables, anything that you come across that would be safe and offer a little challenge. Doing little spins and sitting on their haunches on level tree stumps or other small platforms works their flexibility and balance. Walking along narrow structures such as planks, fallen logs, or little foot bridges helps build their balance and confidence. I find obstacle work especially beneficial for older dogs to keep their minds and bodies active and sharp. I show how to enhance your dog walks in this video.

By taking advantage of the many nosework opportunities, teachable moments, and obstacles along your daily walks, you can pack in a lot of valuable training in a time that you are already dedicating to your dog. You will improve your training skills and strengthen your bond with your dog, and your dog will benefit greatly from the added mental stimulation and physical challenges. It’s a win-win for everyone.

The post Getting the Most from your Dog Walks first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post Getting the Most from your Dog Walks appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

Scruffy first came into our lives over 10 years ago when we lived in rural northern Thailand. We had just moved into a cute little house in a village surrounded by banana groves and rice patties. My daughter was painting her bedroom walls and looked out her window to see a skinny, mangey, sorry-looking dog appear on our front patio.

“Mom! There’s a dog outside!” she announced.

This wasn’t such a strange occurrence in rural Thailand. Dogs, chickens and sometimes other pets and farm animals roamed freely.

Scruffy, when he first came into our lives as a sad, sick village stray

I looked out our kitchen door to see this straggly ginger and white stray dog lying underneath our picnic table seeking out a quiet place to rest. I immediately went to our fridge to see what food I had on hand to offer him.  All I had was a bit of rice, but it was a staple for all Thai dogs.  I put it in a bowl and placed it on the patio for him to eat.

Scruffy would return occasionally to our property, and each time we would offer him something to eat. I bought a bag of dog kibble to ensure I was prepared with some suitable food for his visits. One day, Scruff turned up when my daughter got home from school. She didn’t know where I stored the dog food, so she offered him some of my husband’s prized and brutally expensive Italian salami. Well, Scruffy was hooked! After that, he came around more regularly in accordance with our daily schedule. It was then that I was able to add medication to his meals to help get rid of his mange. Over time, I was able to briefly put a hand on him to pet him. It was during these occasions I would sneak some flea powder in my hand and work it into his coat as I gave him a little scratch.

Over several weeks, slowly but surely, we gained Scruffy’s trust. He would spend most of his time in our garden and we were able to pet and handle him more.  After four months, he finally ventured into our house for the first time. I doubt he had ever been in a home before. At one point, he discovered our couch and made himself at home. I gently drew the line there and let him know that our hospitality didn’t include dogs on furniture. He eventually learned to lie on the dog bed we gave him. This was a whole new experience for him as well – to have a soft place to lie his weary bones!

Scruffy, health restored and feeling at home

We were his people now. I was able to vaccinate him (thanks to a small donation of Italian salami!) and bathe him. By this time, I had adopted a puppy from one of the temples where I helped care for the dogs. He seemed to know he had to accept the obnoxious puppy, and respect us and our home in order to keep this good thing going.

Being a street dog, and a well-seasoned one at that, I never expected Scuff to become a real member of our family. I thought he would value his independence and freedom over committing himself to humans whom he had every reason to mistrust. But when it was time for us to leave Thailand to begin a new life chapter in Italy, there was no doubt that Scruffy was coming with us as our family dog. He endured having to be castrated, microchipped, trips to the vet for health checks and blood tests, and a gruelling long flight from Thailand to Italy.

While in Italy, he adapted to a Western, more restrictive, doggie lifestyle. He became a connoisseur of pizza crusts, he chimed in with the church bells with his mournful, melodious howl, and experienced snow for the first time.

Scruff could be a party animal given the right props.

Scruffy travelled many more times with us as our job situation changed – from Italy to Nova Scotia, to British Columbia, then to Malaysia for a year, then finally to Quebec, his final resting place. He put up with it all, adapting and coping with the stress and change that would give many less resilient dogs PTSD. As long as Scruffy had his family (especially me), together with his daily walks, meals and a soft place to sleep, life was good. I think his time as the neighbourhood stray taught him to appreciate the important things in life. We could all learn a lesson or two from his playbook.

He’s had more adventures in his doggie life than most people do in a human lifetime. Together with my other dog, Pi, he killed a King Cobra in Thailand, hiked mountains in Italy, frolicked in three different oceans, encountered various Quebec wildlife, and has travelled by land, sea and air – and these are only the adventures I know about. Scruff was blind in one eye. There’s got to be a story to tell there too, but we’ll never know the details.

I can’t say for sure how old Scruffy was. He seemed about middle-aged when he first entered our lives back in the fall of 2010. He just kept on carrying on with life year after year. But in 2020 he started running out of steam. He was a tough old curmudgeon, followed me like a shadow, forever loving and grateful to those who saved him. We didn’t choose him as our pet. Rather, he chose us; and we’re more the richer that he did. He taught me how to repair broken trust and to love him for who he was – quirks, rough edges and all. He taught me patience, understanding, and the benefits of taking life a bit more slowly – qualities I didn’t know I even needed. 

Thanks, for teaching me, Scruff. Thanks for choosing us. And thanks for hanging around for so long. You’ve had a good, long run. Now it’s time for a well-deserved rest. 

We love you.

The post Farewell to our Faithful Follower, Scruff Dog first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post Farewell to our Faithful Follower, Scruff Dog appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

There are so many things to consider and prepare for when expecting a baby: the birth, the nursery, clothes, equipment, feeding and sleep schedules… The list is daunting. Getting your dog ready for the big change often gets forgotten or put to the bottom of your to-do list. You may have visions of your dog absolutely loving your baby, protecting her, shadowing her, and being her best friend as she grows up. However, making such a noble vision a reality doesn’t just happen, it usually takes planning, preparation and a great deal of proactivity. For everyone’s happiness and safety, it’s important to get things right when managing a dog and a baby in the same household.

BEFORE BABY ARRIVES

Consider the many new smells, sights, sounds, and changes to the routine that a baby brings into our lives: crying, cradles, toys, diapers, naps, and activity in the middle of the night to name just a few. It’s a lot of adjustment for all family members of both the furry and non-furry persuasion. The more you can prepare yourself and your dog in advance for some of these changes, the better your chances of making a smooth transition to life with a baby.

Habituation

Habituation is basically getting used to something to the point that you are no longer bothered by it or hardly even notice it anymore. For instance, when I moved to the city from the country, I found the traffic and city noise quite bothersome and they disturbed my sleep. After a couple of months, the sirens and horns no longer caused me concern and I was able to sleep through the city noises outside my window as if they were the chirps of crickets that lulled me to sleep before the move.  You want your dog to habituate to your baby’s cries and squeals, the sounds and movements of mobiles, swings and toys, and the smell of baby lotion or other baby products.

Sights/Sounds

Find baby noises on the Internet (legacycanine.com has an MP3 download of baby sounds) and play them occasionally during the day. Start off softly and gradually increase the volume to more realistic levels as your dog gets comfortable with the new noises.  If you have a mobile that plays music or a baby swing, turn it on from time to time to allow your dog to get accustomed to the sounds and the movements. Watch your dog closely for any signs of stress in reaction to these sounds and objects. You may have to proceed more gently and use desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques with the guidance of a professional dog trainer to help ease your dog’s fears.

Smells

For a while, there has been the suggestion of bringing home the baby’s blanket or article of clothing containing the baby’s smell home to the dog for him to sniff before you bring the baby home. This really doesn’t accomplish much in terms of preparing your dog for life with a baby. The smell of the baby alone has no significance to the dog. They might take in the baby’s smell then think, “So what?” A smell can certainly be a powerful conduit of association, however. For me, the smell of mothballs always conjures a pleasant memory of my Godmother. For others, it reminds them of men’s urinals. It’s all in the association.  If you want your baby’s smell to have a positive meaning to your dog, pair it with something your dog likes, such as cheese, hotdogs, or his favourite treat. Usually, there is not enough time between the birth of the baby and its arrival at home to train much of an association. However, you could pair another scent associated with the baby, such as baby lotion, with something your dog likes. Allow your dog to smell the chosen substance then give him a treat. Repeat this often enough and he’ll develop pleasant thoughts whenever he smells that baby-related scent and can thereby feel good about the baby that shares that scent.

Training

Having your dog be proficient at some basic commands will make life much easier once the baby arrives. Make sure your dog is able to perform these behaviours reliably:

• sit
• down
• recall
• leave a distraction
• drop something from his mouth
• go to a mat

Consider how you give commands. You may not be able to use hand signals if you’re carrying a baby. Can you give your dog a command in a whisper if the baby is sleeping? Will your dog perform a command if you’re not looking at him? Train your dog take direction under these new circumstances. 

You’ll also want to make sure your dog has a good level of impulse control. He’ll need to learn to not take food from the baby’s hands, not chase after a squealing toddler, and resist going after baby’s things dropped on the floor.

How does your dog get your attention?  If your dog barks, jumps up or paws at you, that might need to change to keep you and baby safe and avoid the baby’s sleep being disturbed. What could be an alternative, safer behaviour for your dog to use? My dog finds that a gentle nudge or resting her chin on my knee does the trick to tune me into her needs. 

Of course, walking both baby and dog at the same time makes a lot of sense. Walking your dog while pushing a stroller might look pretty easy, but it does take some training and practice by both dog and owner. This is best done well BEFORE your first outing together. Your dog must become accustomed to the noise and movement of the stroller and learn the best place to walk in relation to the stroller so that he doesn’t get himself or the leash interfering with the wheels. The owner needs to learn the mechanics of handling the leash while pushing and steering the stroller. NEVER attach your dog’s leash to the stroller. You never know what might startle your dog or cause him to lunge or bolt and take the stroller with him, scaring and possibly injuring himself and the baby.

Routines

Everyone’s routine is going to be a bit topsy turvy with a newborn in the home. In general, dogs appreciate and depend on having a regular, dependable routine, and if you’ve done a good job with this, now you’ll have to help your dog be a bit more flexible in their daily schedule. Before the baby arrives, add some variations to their routine by feeding and walking them at different times or maybe changing the order that some rituals are done. Mixing up their routine a bit now will help them cope with irregularities that are sure to come when caring for a new baby.

AT HOME WITH BABY

Coming home and first introductions

Bringing the baby home for the first time is an exciting time for everyone. Your dog will certainly be excited to see you after your absence and deserves a bit of your personal attention when you get home. If your dog tends to jump up during greetings, have your dog tied or crated or have another adult hold the baby as you come in. Greet your dog as calmly as possible. 

When introducing your dog to the new baby, do NOT all allow the dog to get in the baby’s face to sniff and investigate and do NOT put the baby carrier on the floor. Your dog may be excited or apprehensive at this time and your baby is vulnerable and has no say in the matter. It simply isn’t safe nor is it necessary. Don’t force an introduction if your dog shows that he is not that keen. There is no need or pressure to have the introduction happen on the first day. Wait until all is calm and you feel that you and your dog are both ready. Don’t bring the baby down to the dog. You might get knocked over or lose your balance. A safer way is to be sitting down on a chair or couch with someone holding the dog on a loose leash (a tight leash will add unwanted stress and tension to the situation). If the dog is curious, allow him to sniff the baby’s feet. Never let the dog invade the baby’s space by crowding her or getting into her face. Be sure to reward any and all positive behaviour from your dog.

Safe Routines and Practices

You can decide whether or not you’ll allow your dog access to the baby’s room, however, under no circumstances should your dog be in the room alone with the baby. If the baby is in any room alone, close off your dog’s access with a door and use a baby monitor. Using a baby gate is not enough. 

Your dog should never be left unattended with the baby. Have a plan for what to do when someone comes to the door or you leave to answer the phone or take a shower or trip to the toilet. You must ensure that your dog and baby are never left alone together, even for a minute. For a minute or less is all it takes for a tragedy to strike. When the baby is on the floor, secure your dog somewhere else. The erratic, jolty movements and squeals babies make can set off dogs’ hunting instincts in an instant. Even if you are in the same room with your dog and baby, you may not be fast enough to prevent a mishap.

Time and Space for Fido

You’re surely going to be busy with meeting your baby’s needs and making sure your dog’s needs are adequately met will help lessen stress and problem behaviours from creeping in.

Alone Time – Your dog will need a quiet, safe place just for him where no one, especially children, will disturb him. It can be a dog bed or crate placed in an easily accessible area for the dog, somewhere that isn’t too isolated that he gets lonely, but also not in a high-traffic area so that it restful. Get your dog accustomed to this “Fortress of Solitude” so that it becomes an enjoyable place for him to hang out. If your dog is not yet trained to go to a designated place and settle, seek the assistance of a professional dog trainer.  During the day, your dog will need some to be by himself with an activity such as a chew toy. This gives you opportunities to do things with the baby away from the dog. 

Downtime – Your dog will also need to have another form of downtime in his routine. This is a time where he cannot have your attention but doesn’t need to be isolated, such as when feeding the baby. The dog can lie at your feet or on his bed.  Settling on a mat is a great behaviour to have in your dog’s training repertoire. 

Mealtime – Provide your dog with an area free from intrusions, especially from curious babies, where he can eat in peace. 

Walk time – Make sure that your dog gets out for daily walks. Allow him to sniff as much as he likes as this is excellent mental stimulation. Getting sufficient physical and mental exercise can minimize many behaviour problems. You yourself will also benefit from getting a bit of fresh air and exercise.

Playtime – Play is a great way to relieve stress and get in more exercise and bond with your dog. Playing fetch, tug or a good game of chase are some favourite ways to “shake the sillies out”. Inside, you can also play a little hide and seek or get down on the floor with your dog and do some personal, social play. 

All this information may seem rather daunting in addition to all the other things occupying your time and attention with preparing for a new baby. Just remember that this is a big change for your dog as well, and the better you can prepare him, the easier it will be for him to be the good family dog you want him to be. Always look for opportunities to reinforce the behaviours you want. Guide and encourage him towards these goals and manage your dog’s environment and behaviour carefully to keep everyone safe and happy. Your time and effort will help baby and dog become best buds.

RESOURCES

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The post Christmas With No Calamity: How to Enjoy the Season With Your Pets first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

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But stop and think for a minute, and put yourself in the dog’s shoes (or paws).  Do you like complete strangers coming up to you and stroking your head, getting in your face?  I would say the majority of us humans would be rather taken aback by this sort of intrusion into our personal space.  We don’t expect our young children to accept this kind of introduction with strangers, we might even get pretty defensive. Likewise, we shouldn’t subject our canine companions to this onslaught of unsolicited attention either – for everyone’s safety.

Like humans, every dog has its own unique disposition and history. Just because the dog is a so-called “friendly breed” like a Labrador, Golden Retriever, or Bernese Mountain Dog, doesn’t automatically make it a dog that wants anyone’s and everyone’s attention. A dog that isn’t keen on interacting doesn’t necessarily mean it’s poorly socialized. Just like people, some dogs are a bit more introverted and prefer moderate stimulation and interactions. If we judged people by the same standards, more than half of humanity would be labelled socially recluse!

It’s a sad and perhaps surprising fact that 77% of dog bites are preventable.  Over three-quarters of bites could have been avoided (including resulting euthanasias) if the affected humans had been knowledgeable and respectful of canine stress signals. Dogs naturally want to avoid conflict. It’s in their own best interest for their survival.  They avoid conflict through communication. Most people understand (or certainly should) that a growl or bared teeth mean that a dog is agitated or feels threatened and wants the threat to back off.  But dogs have a multitude of other, more subtle signals to communicate tension and appeasement.

Some of these include:

Licking the lips or nose

Turning the eyes, head, or body away from the threat

Showing whites of the eyes and/or pupils dilated

Yawning – this is often used to release tension

Dry shaking – also used to release tension

Squinting or half closing the eyes

(refer to the graphics included in this article which describe canine body language)

It’s important to watch for such signals when interacting with a dog to determine if our presence or touch is a source of stress or enjoyment for the dog.

As with any greeting, it’s best to follow proper protocol to ensure all parties feel safe and comfortable. Adults, as well as kids, need to follow these steps when meeting an unfamiliar dog to reduce a dog’s anxiety and the danger of a dog bite.

1. Stay quiet and still as the dog sniffs and checks you out.  It’s a bit like if you were to investigate something you’re unsure or a bit frightened of, like a lizard or a spider.  If the animal stays calm and still, you’ll feel more at ease, but if it suddenly moves or makes a noise, you’ll most likely be startled.
2. Lower your gaze or turn your head away. This communicates to the dog that you are not a threat as it ventures to examine you.
3. If the dog doesn’t back away or show signs of fear, ask the owner if you may pet it.
4. Pet the dog under the ears, chin, or on the chest, not on the head.  Having a hand on or over the head is a bit threatening to a dog.
5. Wait for consent before continuing.  After the first pat, stop and have a look to see if the dog is enjoying the contact, or not. If the dog stays close or leans in, if its tail is wagging in a relaxed, horizontal fashion; it’s probably enjoying it and you can continue.  If the dog looks or turns away, licks its lips, has its ears back, against its skull, tail low; it’s showing tension and you should leave it be and give it space.
6. NEVER put your face close to a dog’s face. It’s quite unnerving for a dog and can result in a nasty bite.
7. NEVER hug a dog. In the dog world, it’s overbearing and quite unnerving.

Dog owners need to give their dogs choice in whether they want to engage or not in a social interaction and respect their dogs’ decision.  We owe it to ourselves, our children, and our canine companions to learn at least this much dog language and etiquette to avoid misunderstandings and potential life-long scars or tragedies.

The post How to Approach an Unfamiliar Dog: A Safety Guide for All Ages first appeared on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.

The post How to Approach an Unfamiliar Dog: A Safety Guide for All Ages appeared first on Paragon Pooch Pet Services CPDT-KA.